Towed Over is a blog about the towing industry, tow trucks, repo, wreckers, rollbacks, heavy duty hauling and tow parts
Campbell, a Banff-based instructor for the WreckMaster towing program, hopes to someday see training for tow-truck operators mandatory across North America.
From Tow411.net
Just as there are many different ways to perform a particular recovery job there are many different ways to secure a vehicle while transporting it on a car carrier. Many securing techniques get the job done but some are safer than others while some are just plain unsafe.
The more choices you have of equipment to use for securing the vehicle, the more likely you will be able to choose one that is safe and secure. Having a wide variety of chains, hooks, and straps will provide you with more options for a particular vehicle.
Whatever type of securing devices you use, make sure they have sufficient capacity for the size vehicles you are capable of loading on the car carrier deck without overloading any of your equipment. Most light-duty car carriers will only be able to load vehicles on the deck that weigh 7,000 pounds or less. Even though the deck might be rated at 10,000 pounds, if it is mounted on a cab and chassis that has a 26,000-pound GVWR or less, the cab and chassis rating will limit you.
Many operators use 2-inch wide nylon tie down straps that are only rated at about 1,600 pounds each. Using four tie-down straps yields a capacity of 6,400 pounds. On a car carrier, the tie down straps are not normally supporting the entire load of the vehicle. However the load on the straps will dramatically increase in the event of a collision. The tie-downs must be of sufficient strength to secure the vehicle to the deck in the event of a collision. For this reason, I recommend that you use tie-down straps that are each rated high enough to support the total weight of the largest vehicle you would load on the deck. If you are able to safely load a 7,000-pound vehicle on your car carrier deck, then I recommend that each tie down strap, chain and or ratchet be rated at least 3,500 pounds.
Once a vehicle has been winched on to the car carrier deck to the desired position, attach tie downs at the front end of the deck before attaching tie-downs to the rear end of the deck. Never get behind a vehicle on a car carrier deck until the opposite end has been secured. Don’t trust the winch to hold the vehicle.
Many tow operators use nylon straps and ratchets with a cluster of hooks. These types of tie down straps usually will have a cluster of hooks that contain a T-hook, Mini J-hook and an R-hook. These hooks should be a minimum of grade 7 for a safe working load limit of 4,700 pounds.
When securing vehicles to the car carrier deck, I prefer to use a tie down technique that pulls as much horizontal as possible. Using a technique that pulls on the vehicle vertically will compress the vehicles suspension. If the suspension compresses more during transport, it may cause the tie downs to loosen.
I have seen many tow operators using the Mini J-hooks attached to a hole in the rims. I don’t recommend this procedure. There is very little contact surface between the rim and the Mini J-hook so on some rims it may cause damage. The other problem is many of these operators are attaching to a hole that is at the top or bottom of the rim. If the tire rotates, the tie-down will become loose.
Using a nylon strap through a hole in the rim is acceptable in most cases. Make sure that the inside edge of the rim is not sharp or abrasive as it may cause damage to your strap or even cut it. Make sure the strap does not place pressure on a valve stem or wheel balance weights. Use the hole in the rim that is closest to the tie-down point on the deck. Another tech
nique is to use an axle strap on the rear axle housing, lower control arms, or through holes in the rims and attaching a strap or chain with a hook on the end to the loops or rings on the axle strap.
Some operators like to cross the rear tie downs. This is acceptable but you must use caution. Make sure that the attachment point you use on the vehicle will not be able to slide towards the center of the vehicle. For example, if you use J-hooks attached to a rear axle housing and you cross your chains, the J-hook may be able to slide towards the center and cause your tie downs to loosen. I prefer not to cross my tie downs. If you have your tie-downs crossed and one side breaks or becomes disconnected, the other side may tend to pull the vehicle to that side of the deck. If the tie downs are straight to the rear of the deck and one side breaks or becomes disconnected, the other tie down still pulls straight back and not to the opposite side.
Basket type tie downs have become very popular. These work well because you do not attach to anything except the tires. You do not have to reach under the vehicle to attach the straps. You can attach them from the side of the vehicle and not expose yourself to the hazard of placing your self behind the vehicle while it is loaded on the deck. The vehicle is free to ride on its own suspension during transport. There is no metal-to-metal contact.
If you are using chains for all four tie-downs, you will need to have chain binders. I recommend the use of ratchet type chain binders over lever type. Do not use a cheater bar to attach or release a chain binder. A cheater bar is any device used to extend the length of the binders arm to provide you with more leverage. Chain binders have a specific length handle designed to allow you to secure the binder without over tightening. Using a cheater bar may allow you to over tighten the chains and can be dangerous. You would not be the first tow operator to have a cheater bar slip out of your hand while releasing a lever type chain binder causing serious injuries.
Make sure that the tie-down slots on the car carrier deck are in good condition. If you use chains in a tie-down slot that is damaged, it may cause the chains to come out. This is very common on aluminum decks.
If your car carrier deck has tie down slots or rings in the center of the deck, it may be easier to tie down some vehicles to the center tie-downs on the deck.
Do not over tighten your tie-downs. One of the most common types of damage caused by car carrier operators is suspension damage due to over tightening of the tie-downs. The tie-downs only need to be tight enough to prevent the vehicle from moving. This type of damage is often caused when using the winch to tighten the chains attached to the rear of the deck.
I recommend that if you can do it safely, place the vehicle in park and set the emergency brake. By placing the vehicle in park and placing the emergency brake on, you create rolling resistance; therefore there will be less load on your tie-downs each time you accelerate or brake. The additional load placed on the tie-downs during acceleration or braking is not enough to be unsafe if the proper capacity tie downs are used so it is not worth risking injury.
Do not climb on the deck to place the vehicle in park and set the emergency brake if there are any hazards. Most car carrier decks are only 96 inches wide. When wide vehicles are on the deck, this may not be enough room for you to climb on the deck safely. If you have to step on the rail of the deck, this would be a hazard. Do not climb on the deck if there is water, oil, or any other substance on the deck that may create a slip hazard. If possible, climb on the deck on the side away from traffic.
When securing a vehicle for transport on a car carrier, choose a technique that is safe, secure, and will not cause damage to the vehicle being transported.
Tow truck operators transport cars and trucks that are damaged, non-operational, or parked illegally, aid motorists, and keep streets and highways clear. Traffic never stops, so tow truck operators are called out at all times of day, year-round. The job involves personal safety, driving, heavy equipment, and traffic safety, so operators should learn safety basics for tow truck operations.
Mind your personal safety; ensure that someone is tracking or has a record of your planned route. Don’t enter a situation that looks or feels dangerous; be calm and diplomatic when dealing with customers. When exiting your truck, be aware of the traffic around you; look and think before you make a move. To avoid a fall, use the steps and handles getting in and out of the truck; never jump in or out of the cab or bed.
Maintain your fitness for the job which may require stretching, bending, lifting, and climbing. Use good body mechanics and lifting techniques to avoid back injuries. Don’t strain, twist, or over-reach, and avoid extreme or awkward positions as much as possible.
Drive defensively and stay alert. Avoid alcohol, drugs, and medications that cause drowsiness. Follow safe hours of service guidelines. Wear your seatbelt. Obey speed limits and road regulations. Don’t multi-task; keep your eyes and mind on the road. When towing, use your lights or a light bar to signal your intentions and show the rig length.
Know your equipment rating and capacity; overloading may cause an accident. Be aware of your truck height for maneuvering under overpasses and bridges. Inspect the truck before each use. Check the utility body and mounts and fix broken bolts, cracked welds, or stress fractures. Inspect the chains and hooks on the rig; make sure the security pins are not bent or falling out and the chain has no bent, stretched, or hammered links.
Inspect the winch and cable often, keep it clean and lubricated; repair or replace if necessary. Use hooks and clamps rated at the same capacity as the wire. Maintain 3 to 5 wraps on the winch drum and rewind it periodically to lay the cable flat and even. Watch the lines so that they don’t get tangled; placing continued pressure can shear the cable and send it flying at high speed.
When hooking up a towed vehicle, block and chock the wheels before disengaging the driveshaft or the brakes. Try not to work under a lifted truck; if you must do so, block and chock the wheels, front and back. Use lockout/tagout procedures on the wheel lift, boom and winches while working under a truck or between the truck and towed vehicle. If you have a remote to the lift, boom or winch, do not leave it in your pocket or on the ground where it could be accidentally activated; lockout and secure the remote inside your truck until you are ready to use it.
When working in the tow-away zone, stay in the safety zone.
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The right recovery straps and how to use them can make the difference if you can pull your vehicle out safely or if you have to wait on a tow truck. A high quality strap without hooks attached to it is the strap you want to use for getting a vehicle unstuck.he above is called a "tow" strap. The main reason not to use this for recovery is simple. If the recovery strap or your recovery hardware breaks, it's not safe to have a metal hook flying off at speeds in excess of 100 mph.Many people have been killed and seriously injured by using these straps incorrectly. These straps will not stretch because they are made for towing, not recovery.
Let me first clarify what we are talking about.How a Recovery Strap Works
The strap works like this. Say for example you are pulling out your friend, so you attach your recovery strap to the back of your vehicle and then to the front of his. As you drive away from him the recovery strap stretches just like a rubber band. The strap wants to go back to its normal size, so it has no other choice than to transfer the energy to the stuck vehicle, pulling it out.
Recovery straps are flat with sewn loops and no hooks. They are nylon, not polypropylene or Dacron or chain. Because the straps are made of Nylon, they stretch. They are safer than chains, easier to use, and not nearly as heavy.
Specifications
I've seen recovery straps come in lengths of 20 to 40 feet and widths from 2 to 6 inches. A general rule of thumb, each inch of width will allow you to pull out about 10,000 lbs. So if I have a 3 inch wide strap, it would be rated to tug up to 30,000 lbs. Many will then ask, why not go all the way up to a 6" wide recovery strap? The problem is that the strap becomes less elastic the wider it gets, which means it will not work properly. Typically a 2" or 3" wide recovery strap will suit all of your needs.
Tips for Recovery Strap Use
* Before ever using the strap, make sure it is in good condition ( no cuts, frays, or broken stitching.)
* Make sure the hardware being used is free of defects and rust. This includes your tow hooks or front hitch and the hardware on the other vehicle. If possible, the recovering vehicle should place the recovery strap to its rear end, which would be the safest place if the strap happens to break.
* You may be able to wrap the strap around a hitch, but I would not put it IN the hitch. I have seen a few people who have bent the pin, which then had to be cut out. Getting a tow hook or D-Ring adaptor to go into the hitch is a better idea. Here is an example of a D-Ring adaptor and how a recovery strap should be hooked up to one:
* Some older cars actually have tow hooks, but if not you must use your own judgment. Never attach a recovery strap to a vehicles bumpers, axles, suspension, steering rods, or a trailer hitch ball. The attach points must be to a secure place on the vehicles frame. Do not place the recovery strap on another vehicle in a way that it may be cut.
* Never, ever, attach a recovery strap to another vehicle with a knot. You should pass one end of the strap through the loop at the other end of the strap to secure it on.
* Incase the strap may break, lay a tarp or some jackets on top of the recovery strap. When the strap breaks (lets hope for the best, but prepare for the worst), the jackets or tarp will slow the recovery strap down before it hits someone.
* To help protect the strap from tears, make sure all logs and large rocks are removed from the recovery path. Everyone should stand clear of the recovery strap when it is in use.
* When pulling the vehicle out, drive very slowly. Sudden tugs may lead to damage to either of the vehicles or the strap.
* Once the vehicle is safely removed, inspect your recovery strap and hardware and hit the road!
In addition to these recommendations, read the instructions your recovery strap comes with. To protect your strap, store it out of sunlight and away from heat and keep it clean. Dirt, mud and debris embedded in a tow strap actually damages the fibers over time and can decrease its strength. After a muddy day of wheeling and recovery, always clean your straps by hosing them off and spray horizontally across the strap as not to push the debris into the strap fibers. Happy Recovering! recovery strap, recovery straps, towing straps, straps, tow parts, towing parts,recovery strap, recovery straps, towing straps, straps, tow parts, towing parts,
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